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Domaine Jean Vullien, Combe de Savoie

While this alpine area of eastern France may be better known for skiing than viticulture, a cadre of Savoyard vignerons are producing excellent wines here. The region's best come from a boomerang-shaped string of six hillside crus between Grenoble and Albertville (site of 1992 Winter Olympics) called the Combe de Savoie (Combe is a word of Celtic origin meaning a sharp, deep valley). Jean Vullien and his two sons, David and Olivier, tend 69 acres on the Combe with prime parcels in four of the six crus.

The domaine's holdings include all of the region's indigenous grape varieties, as well as strategically-placed parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the boys both graduated from La Viti in Beaune). The wines range from a crisp, lemon and mineral Jacquère-based white that British wine author Andrew Jefford would categorize as "Muscadet of the Alps" to complex floral and spiced reds made from Mondeuse. This year, France's Revue du Vin selected Domaine Jean Vullien as their Coup de Coeur (Favorite) domaine in Savoie and chose Vullien's Chignin-Bergeron as their top Roussanne of the 2008 vintage.

While the Vulliens have been making wine for 36 years, the family is perhaps best known as a leader in another segment of the wine industry. Since 1890, Vullien Pépinière Viticole (vine nursery) has been supplying young vines to growers throughout France. In fact, they are responsible for 25% of the Chardonnay planted in Chablis today.

Domaine Facts

Vines & Wines: 69 acres total planted on the hillsides of the Combe de Savoie to the following:
Jacquère: 4.94 acres in the cru Montmélian – labeled Vin de Savoie Montmélian
Roussette aka Altesse: 6.18 acres in various parcels – labeled Roussette de Savoie
Chardonnay: 9.88 acres – labeled Vin de Savoie Chardonnay
Roussanne aka Bergeron: 15 acres in the cru Chignin – labeled Chignin-Bergeron
Gamay: 8.15 acres – labeled Vin de Savoie Gamay
Pinot Noir: 8.9 acres – labeled Vin de Savoie Pinot Noir
Mondeuse: 16 acres including parcels in the crus St-Jean-de-la-Porte and Arbin
In addition to the 100% varietal wines listed above, the Vulliens produce an elegant Méthode Traditionelle sparkling wine that is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir and 10% Jacquère.
All vines sustainably farmed (lutte raisonnée)
Soil: Dark Jurassic limestone and black marl base with pebbly topsoil layer of scree (degraded limestone fragments that have accumulated over time from Massif des Bauges slopes above)
Harvest: Manual harvest with strict selection in both vineyard and on sorting table before crush
Yields: Average 60 hectoliters/hectare for Jacquère and Roussette – 40 to 50hl/ha for the top Crus
Vinification
& Elevage:
Total destemming. All fermentation and majority of élevage takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, including single cru Mondeuse reds. In addition to reds, malo-lactic fermentation carried out on Jacquère, Roussette and Chardonnay to round out natural acidity. No malo for Roussanne (Bergeron) to preserve balance of already viscous variety. Barrel aging used only for Pinot Noir Cuvée Jeannine and Mondeuse Cuvée Prestige.
Annual Production:
198,000 bottles / 16,500 cases